Bridal Journal

Wedding Dress Measurements Guide

The measurements a bridal atelier actually needs, how to take each one, and the three mistakes we correct most often.

Updated 31 August 2026 · 6 min read

Measuring yourself for a wedding dress is not difficult, but it is precise. Use a soft tape, wear the undergarments you plan to wear on the day, and ask a second person to help. DILWIEN PERFECT FIT walks you through each measurement visually and saves your figures as you go.

What to prepare

A soft measuring tape, a mirror, a length of ribbon to mark your natural waist, the bra you intend to wear, and the shoe height you have chosen. Measure over bare skin or close-fitting underwear, never over clothing.

The core measurements

Bust: around the fullest part, tape level all the way round and parallel to the floor. Underbust: directly beneath the bust, snug. Natural waist: the narrowest part of the torso — tie the ribbon and let it settle. Hips: the fullest part, usually 20–22 cm below the waist.

Hollow to hem: from the hollow at the base of your throat straight down to the finished hem length, taken in your wedding shoes. Shoulder to waist, and shoulder to bust point, set where the bodice seams fall. Arm circumference and armhole matter for sleeves.

The three mistakes we see most

Pulling the tape tight. A tape should sit flat and firm, not compress. Compressed figures produce a gown you cannot breathe in.

Measuring the waist where trousers sit. Trouser waistbands sit low; a bridal waist seam sits at the narrowest point.

Taking hem length without shoes. Hem is the one measurement that cannot be guessed later without a second fitting.

If your body changes

Bodies change over a long engagement, and that is normal. Keep your measurement profile updated before the pattern is cut — versioned figures let the atelier compare against your history rather than starting again. After cutting, small differences are handled at the fitting stage.